Delightful Doris

Hi all!

As you might have noticed if you follow me on Instagram (@cinderellissews), Me-Made-May is now in full swing!

So far, I’ve been fairly happy with my outfits, nothing too out of the ordinary:

Day 1 (top right): Lady Skater/ Moneta dress
Day 2 (bottom right): Sewaholic Renfrew top
Day 3: Floral Mesa Dress
Day 4 (left): Mesa T-Shirt

Day 5: my gorgeous new Doris Dress!!!

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My original plan for last weekend was to sew this fabric up as a Colette Hawthorn. Interestingly, although I thought it would make a gorgeous hawthorn, I couldn’t envision it properly – you know sometimes that perfect pairing of fabric and pattern just pops into your head? I couldn’t quite see it, and was thinking about maybe adding some little kimono sleeves, or changing the neckline slightly. Then, Sew Over It released the Doris Dress, and I immediately had “the vision” of the finished item – a pairing of this lovely lawn, and the Doris Pattern. I bought the PDF, taped it together and made a toile in one evening – very satisfying progress.

As is to be expected, the pattern went together beautifully. I have now sewn two SOI patterns back-to-back and have been really impressed with the drafting. Everything lines up perfectly, and I’ve never found it easier to get pleats to line up across seamlines. The only slight issue was that I had about an extra 1/2″ ease between the back darts, that I only noticed when it came to stitching the skirt to the bodice. I haven’t checked the pattern to see what happened, but I expect this may well be a cutting error on my part because none of the pattern testers mentioned it. To make it fit, I just gathered the CB section on the bodice and eased it into the corresponding section of the skirt. Because of the looser fit in the back, it’s not hugely obvious.

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The only other change I made was to bring the neckline up by 1/2″. This made the facings a little uneven as I forgot to change them and didn’t realise until they were all on, but a hefty bit of pressing sorted that out!

The fabric is a cotton lawn from Minerva Crafts (they still have the other colourways in stock!). It’s gorgeous and soft, but unfortunately see-through enough to require an extra layer. I decided to underline it (rather than lining) in white cotton lawn, which gives the dress a really luxurious feel. I simply cut out all the pieces in both fabrics then overlocked them together. However, it does add bulk! I decided to finish the hem and armholes with bias binding to make the hem as flat as possible. The underlining means that it doesn’t wrinkle as much, and shouldn’t require excessive ironing.

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Pretty insides!

I’m very pleased with the invisible zip:

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I made the buttonholes on my mum’s Janome, using the cute rounded buttonhole option:

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The rounded buttonholes look a little less bulky than the standard square ones.

I decided in the end to forego the back tie – the dress isn’t quite as loose as I thought it might be. There’s certainly ease, but it seems to just skim, rather than swamp my figure. It’s a perfect day dress! I’m really happy with it!

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Oh and I even added in a label at the back 🙂

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How’s your MMM coming on?

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