MAXI – moneta

Hi guys!

It’s been quite a while since I’ve posted, and I’ve got lots to share! I’ve just been in the USA, Canada and Iceland for the best part of a month – it was such an amazing trip, but sometimes it was fairly tough as I’m still on crutches after my ankle injury. Before my trip, I’d had grand plans of making myself a lovely holiday wardrobe, with lots of mix-and-match pieces, but with limited mobility sewing was not really that much fun. I can now carry bits and pieces as I’m mostly down to one crutch, and can actually stand at the ironing board for long enough to press things so I’ll be sewing again as soon as I’ve finished unpacking all the fabric I bought on my trip (but that’s for another post)… In the meantime, here’s the one dress I managed to make in time:

Continuing on from my two knit Laurels, I decided to go for another jersey project, one that I’ve had planned for a while! I bought this scrummy Liberty jersey in the sale (at Liberty) last year. It was still very pricey at £40 for the cut, but it was the end of the bolt so I got 2.25m for that price (and it’s at least 60” wide!). It’s the viscose jersey which I’ve used before, and it is fantastic quality so I don’t mind paying a little more for it.

I knew when I got it that I would make a maxi-dress, as it’s not often that I have enough fabric for that! I decided on the Colette Moneta, which I made a few years ago to limited success. Previously, I hadn’t had much experience with jersey, so made a few rookie errors in terms of fabric and finishing. Now I’ve had a fair number of jersey projects under my belt, I decided it was time to cut into this pretty fabric!

 I didn’t quite follow the order of the instructions, but instead went my own way:

  • I didn’t use the drafted skirt, but instead did some basic drafting to make it because the fabric is a wide stripe so the skirt as drafted would create “smile lines” in the skirt from the curved waistline.
  • To make the skirt, I worked out the approx. length to be full length on me. Due to the stretch of the fabric, I then reduced it by a few inches so that it wouldn’t extend below my feet. I decided to use the selvedge for the hem, as it wasn’t visibly distorted. I made sure that I had enough fabric left to cut the bodice after cutting the 40” length skirt, and then used the full length (i.e. the 2.25m) of the fabric for the width.
  • I then split this into two – one each for the front and back. I took the skirt pattern piece and used it to create some shaping up towards the waist. This reduces the amount of bulk.
  • I measured the right amount of elastic to fit the bodice, sewed it into a circle, then gathered the skirt to fit.
  • I used clear elastic to stabilise the shoulder seams, neckline and armholes. I wouldn’t normally stabilise the neckline when using a neckband but due to the weight of the maxi dress, I thought it would be a good idea to make it a bit stronger! I drafted the neckband to fit the neckline – I was rather worried about it being too tight, but in the end it is a little too big – as you can see it gapes slightly at the back neckline. I decided that the risk of stretching out the neckline when unpicking it outweighed how much it might annoy me!
  • I used my overlocker for the side seams, shoulder seams and attaching the bodice to the skirt. I then used my Bernina for attaching the elastic, attaching the neckline and finishing the armholes.

The photos are from my day out in Escondido, California with my friend Patience. We had so much fun catching up!

Keep an eye out later this week for an exciting announcement 🙂


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